Xiaodongtian
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Xiaodongtian

Taoism has the legend of cave heaven and blessed land. The world of immortals is composed of ten big caves, thirty-six small caves and seventy-two blessed places. Sichuan cuisine also has the legend of gardens, halls and halls. Zhengxing garden, Rongyuan paradise and Zhongdian building are the schools for cooks. It is the famous little Dongtian hotel in Chongqing that can connect two unrelated legends together. The signboard of xiaodongtian hotel is built by two generations of Sichuan cuisine chefs separated by 30 years. They have superb cooking skills and dishes. There are glories and gloom, expansions and regrets. Until the curtain call 15 years ago, it is still the Holy Land in the hearts of pilgrims.

Xiaodongtian hotel has two periods of history. The first one is that it kept its climax from the beginning of its establishment to its departure from Sichuan cuisine in the last century. Liao Qingting, the founder of Liao Qingting, came from Zhongdian building, one of the first large Sichuan restaurants in Chongqing. Du Xiaotian, the boss, is regarded as the founder of Sichuan cuisine in the industry. There are many experts in Zhongdian building, including Leng Bingkun who is good at barbecue, Zhou Dingbang who is good at cold dishes, Xie Haiquan, Zhang Shouxun, Kong Daosheng, and a group of disciples of Du Xiaotian, such as Liao Qingting, Xiong Weiqing, Zeng Yaguang and Zhou Yueting. Liao Qingting was born in 1907 in Baishiyi, Baxian County, Chongqing. When he was 13 years old, he was introduced to Zhongdian building and took Du Xiaotian as his teacher. As soon as he entered the trade, he could learn the craft from his grandfather. There are also a group of outstanding chefs around him, which is the dream of many chefs. Under the careful guidance of all the people, Liao Qingting"s cooking skills improved by leaps and bounds. After three years of apprenticeship, Liao Qingting has grown into a full-length coat of seven and a half bibs. Because of his short stature and bright brain, he is called "elf". Also lucky was his fellow countryman Zeng Yaguang, seven years younger than Liao Qingting. After three years of study, he worked in famous restaurants in Shanghai, Nanjing and Hankou. After returning to Chongqing, he joined xiaodongtian in 1941. Different from Zeng Yaguang, Liao Qingting chose to start his own business after graduation. In 1931, he and his teachers and friends Zhu Kanglin and fan Qingyun founded a small cave near houyaopo park. The reason for this name is entirely due to the terrain. Setting up a shop along the mountain and taking the cave as the room, although there is no elegance of spring and snow, it can also benefit from warm winter and cool summer. There is a tennis court in the park. Many celebrities in Chongqing often come here to practice. After recreation, they go to xiaodongtian to eat food and drink. Business is booming. It is known as "there are hundreds of feasts every day, and there are no empty seats.". In addition to continuing the famous dishes of Zhongdian building, Liao Qingting and others have also developed many new varieties, including rice smoked chicken, vinegar fried chicken, half soup fish, gewenzi chicken, steamed chicken with sea cucumber, bean sprouted duck, dried shredded beef, spicy chicken, garlic white hoof, soft crisp crucian carp, etc. After joining Zeng Yaguang, he brought to xiaodongtian some good dishes, such as dried braised shark fin, fried fish maw, fried eel, roast duck with pork, braised suckling pig, and sea cucumber. When you come to xiaodongtian, you can enjoy authentic Sichuan flavor. During the Anti Japanese War, the military, government, industry and Commerce gathered in the capital, and famous chefs from all walks of life gathered in the mountain city. Liao Qingting"s reputation reached its peak at this time. In addition to being the master of ink in xiaodongtian, he was also the director of several large restaurants such as the assistant capital, kaigegui, Cathay Pacific, Heyuan, etc., and once served as the chairman of the professional trade union of Chinese and Western cuisine workers in Chongqing. He was worthy of being the leader in the kitchen industry of Chongqing, and xiaodongtian was also famous in Chongqing. In 1948, Xiao Dongtian closed down. Liao Qingting was invited to work as a chef in Shanghai, Taiwan and other places. He returned to Chongqing in August 1949. After the founding of the people"s Republic of China, he took charge of cooking in Guangzhou restaurants and Minzu road restaurants in Chongqing. He successively brought out a group of high-ranking apprentices, including Xu daolun, Xu Yuanming, Xiao Qingyun, fan Shugui, Qiu Shifu and Ding Yingjie. In 1974, Liao Qingting died. Hundreds of people from all over the country attended the memorial ceremony. Some people still lament the solemnity of the ceremony at that time and the people"s unwillingness. This is the best proof of Liao Qingting"s virtue and art. After 30 years" sleep, it is still the king who wakes up. In today"s Chongqing jiaochangkou Minquan road trust building, it was a multi-storey brick building before 2006. The building was built in 1980 and rebuilt on the basis of the original Chaoyang Hotel. In 1982, the new building was completed, and the second generation of xiaodongtian hotel was officially opened here. The first major event after opening is to undertake the assessment of Sichuan Province"s first super chef in East Sichuan area (the Western Sichuan area is undertaken by Chengdu Furong restaurant). Before this assessment, Sichuan cuisine super chefs were directly named by relevant departments. In 1962, the first batch was identified by the Ministry of Commerce, including Zhang Deshan, Kong Daosheng, Zhang songyun, Liu Duyun, Zhou Haiqiu, Su Yun, Zhu Weixin and Chen Zhixing. From 1978 to 1982, the Sichuan provincial government named 25 super chefs, including Liu Jiancheng, Zeng Guohua, Chen Zhigang, Zeng Yaguang, Chen Qingyun, Xu Dezhang and Zhang Guodong. The average age of these super chefs is 63 years old, and Sichuan cuisine has come to a critical moment in urgent need of successors. In November 1982, dozens of elite cooks in xiaodongtian gathered in xiaodongtian, where they were examined by super chefs. The qualification for them to enter the examination room was "more than 20 years of working experience in cooking technology, and they have obtained a first-class professional title". Compared with some current certificates, such as pocketing, they are quite different. Since then, Sichuan cuisine has gradually stepped into the second golden age. The collective outbreak of Sichuan and Chongqing has brought shops, people and dishes out of the basin and spread all over the world. To some extent, it is a landmark event in the history of Sichuan cuisine that xiaodongtian reappears and undertakes the first special examination, which also shows the status of xiaodongtian in the hearts of Sichuan cuisine. The newly-built xiaodongtian hotel has a atrium. On the first floor, there is a dining hall and snack bar. On the second floor, there are banquet halls and six elegant halls which can hold more than 30 seats. Besides, there is also a half floor hot pot dining area between the first and second floors. In the 1990s, it was further transformed into a multi-functional catering and entertainment complex with guest rooms, nightclubs, beauty salons, surfing and massage, business centers and bars. It is also the training center of Chongqing Central District catering company. Besides Zeng Yaguang, the first generation of respected veteran generals, Zhang Guodong, Li xieyao, Li QingChu, Liu Dadong, Yang An"an, Qiu Shifu, Xie Rongxiang, Cai Xiong, Feng Chunfu, Nie Xiyang and other famous teachers have established the Zeng Pai Sichuan cuisine skill system (Zeng Yaguang) and Zhang Pai"s Sichuan style cold dish cooking techniques The art system (Zhang Guodong) has trained a large number of talents for Sichuan cuisine industry. Authentic Sichuan cuisine is still the foundation of xiaodongtian. The first generation of famous Sichuan cuisine has been continuously restored. At the same time, other well-known Sichuan dishes have been introduced and actively innovated, including dry burned rock carp, steamed Jiangtuan, home style sea cucumber, Cordyceps sinensis duck, home style turtle, ginseng Fritillaria zhenzhuji, baihuajiang group, Zhangcha duck, and dozens of innovations, such as Xueying Chaoxia, peacock welcome guests, Phoenix peony, Jiaolong Xianzhen, etc New varieties. In the late 1980s, relying on Chongqing Central District catering service company (later changed to Yuzhong catering service company), xiaodongtian started its expansion mode. In 1989, it opened its first small Dongtian restaurant in Guangzhou, and then successively opened stores in Shenzhen, Hainan, Beijing, Shanghai and Shenyang. In 1997, Yuzhong catering company changed its name to xiaodongtian catering group and further strengthened its expansion. It opened three small Dongtian restaurants in Beijing alone, and also opened xiaodongtian hotpot city in Shanghai and Harbin. Xiaodongtian is one of the first batch of chain enterprises to promote traditional Sichuan cuisine, Chongqing hotpot and Sichuan snacks in the whole country. During the peak period, there are more than 50 small Dongtian restaurants, restaurants, snack cities and hotpot cities. Just as xiaodongtian attacked the city and occupied the land, a pity happened. What"s more, it happened at 107 Minquan Road, the nest of xiaodongtian. In 2006, due to the needs of urban construction, the original site of xiaodongtian will be used to build the office building of trust company, and xiaodongtian will be relocated to open a shop. In the past few decades, dozens of stores have been opened across the country. It is not only a pity that they have been "opened" under their own eaves. Reprinted from: L510 / l511, L5 / F, block a, Yingli International Plaza, Daping, Yuzhong District, Sichuan flavor culture


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